Pastéis and blue tiles

We land in Lisbon and are immediately greeted by Aunt Thesi and her partner Pedro, who give us a warm welcome. We hop right into the car and head south to Vila Nova de Milfontes, where the two of them are enjoying their retirement. A beautiful house with plenty of grounds—a few days of family time, good food, and stories about cousins around the table.

They show us around the region: beaches along the Alentejo coast, rolling hills in the hinterland, and many delicious restaurants—serving local, fresh fish, and authentic cuisine. Pedro leads the way, we follow, and at the end of each day we sit in the garden with a glass of wine and watch the sun dip below the Atlantic.

One day we head into the city—Lisbon. It’s really beautiful and impressive. Museums, food, beer. The Portuguese have great beer from small breweries—the craft beer scene is surprisingly high-quality. We explore the city, walk up and down a few hills, and head back to Milfontes in the evening.

One day we head to a hippie/Goa festival in the woods, in the area around Milfontes. Goa music, a hippie market with handmade goods, fabrics, jewelry—and healthy vegan food. Well, there’s no accounting for taste. A colorful crowd, a great atmosphere, and back to Milfontes in the evening, exhausted.