Summer at the other end of the world

Arrival on December 15, shortly after 9 p.m., following a 27-hour flight from Zurich. At the Rydges Auckland, my first steps are met with 18-degree weather and summer rain—and after such a long journey, the Chinese food just around the corner tastes like a gourmet meal. The first three days in Auckland: the Sky Tower at sunset, the harbor at night, the view from Mount Eden over the entire city with its dormant volcanoes, an afternoon at Weta Workshop Unleashed among movie props and special effects—and in between, lots of shopping and even more great food.

Domestic flight to Christchurch—an hour that feels like a tram ride. At the airport, we pick up our rental car—driving from south to north is significantly cheaper than the other way around. Driving on the left is a real challenge at first; every roundabout is a little adventure. Christchurch will be our base for five nights at the Rydges Latimer, from where we’ll take day trips: swimming with dolphins in Kaikōura (Hector’s dolphins swimming right beneath us), a city tour on the old tram, an afternoon at the Willowbank Wildlife Reserve among kiwis and tuataras, and a day trip to the Ōpuke Thermal Pools & Spa with views of the Southern Alps. A day at the beach to catch our breath—the sea is only eight degrees, so we head to the heated pools right next to it. The planned LOTR hike to Mount Sunday to the Edoras film sets is canceled because a cold knocks me out for a day. Instead, plenty of time in the Food Hall at Riverside Market, shopping, and good food.

A night in Dunedin at the Kingsgate Hotel, on the way south. On the Otago Peninsula, albatrosses with wingspans so vast they make you instinctively step aside await us—and, above all, fur seals lazily lounging on the rocks. We also spot a few penguins: the rare yellow-eyed penguins and the tiny little blue penguins (Kororā), the smallest penguin species in the world. After that, we head straight on to Queenstown.

Christmas in Queenstown. Even though it’s summer, it’s surprisingly chilly—on December 25, the Remarkables are topped with fresh, white snow. We found affordable lodging at the Lylo Hostel, right in the heart of town. Took the Skyline Gondola up to Bob’s Peak for the view over Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains, then hopped on the KJet Jetboat at eleven on Christmas Day—cold wind, icy spray, big smiles. Hiking in the area, plus shopping and plenty of good food. Deer Park Heights for a LOTR hike was unfortunately fully booked, and Milford Sound was too far for a day trip

A long drive to Franz Josef and the Franz Alpine Retreat. The route winds through rainforest, showcasing the full drama of western New Zealand: water from above, water from the sides, water from the ground. Hikes through the rainforest, past moss-covered giants and hidden waterfalls. We don’t set foot on the Franz Josef Glacier itself, but we marvel at it from afar—a shimmering blue ribbon of ice that retreats a little further each year.

A night at Maruia Hot Springs. Wellness in the mountains, steaming pools nestled among the fir trees, silence broken only by the sound of running water. My mind clears, thought by thought.

A day's drive along the west coast up to the Abel Tasman region, ending at the Tides Hotel in Nelson. After arriving, we manage to quickly make it to the beach for a quick swim—then the storm hits. Posters are whirled through the air, branches crash down, trees snap, and we simply make the best of it: ordering one drink after another at the hotel bar, watching the wind rage, and realizing that this, too, is a very New Zealand experience. The next morning, we spend a long time worrying before continuing our journey: the road to Picton and the ferry is blocked by fallen trees. A four-hour detour—or maybe not? Fortunately, the road reopens shortly before we set off.

Cook Strait ferry from Picton to Wellington—four hours on the water between the islands; somewhere among the waves, I think I see dolphins, or am I just imagining it? Four days in the capital at the QT Wellington, New Year’s Eve in the windiest metropolis in the world. First a city tour and a long walk along the waterfront, then the New Year’s celebration with fireworks and the wind whistling in my ears—and shortly after, the aftermath in the form of food poisoning. While I’m laid up, my wife conquers the city on her own. Once I’m feeling somewhat better, we manage a short LOTR walk together in the city park—right where the famous Ringwraiths scene was filmed, with the gnarled roots under which Frodo hides. The hike to the Putangirua Pinnacles falls victim to my illness, and we decide on the spot to postpone the Weta Cave workshop until our last day in Wellington—hands-on movie props and special effects as the grand finale.

Drive to Taupo and the Wairakei Resort. The resort itself is a disappointment, but during peak season there’s no affordable alternative—so we stick it out and spend as much time as possible exploring the area. Three days at New Zealand’s largest lake: kayaking out to the Māori rock carvings, huge faces carved directly out of the rock, visible only from the water. Relaxation at the Wairakei Terraces & Thermal Health Spa, where steaming pools lie between pebble terraces. Long walks on the beach, good food, and a special highlight: there are hot springs right in the lake itself, so we search the shore until we find a spot—sometimes warm water flows through our toes, sometimes ice-cold, a fascinating contrast right from the ground. Plus waterfalls so blue they make you think of Photoshop.

Drive to Rotorua and check into the Millennium Hotel. On this trip, we’ve earned enough points with Millennium to reach Premium status—which means two hours of complimentary happy hour from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m., plus breakfast and snacks on the house. A fantastic room with a private hot tub on a secluded terrace, stars above the steaming water.
We kick things off with whitewater rafting on the Kaituna—warmed to a pleasant 25 degrees by volcanic activity, plus the world’s highest commercially navigable waterfall: pure action and adventure. The next day, the Kiwi Sanctuary, which raises several dozen chicks each year from collected eggs—the survival rate here is much higher than in the wild, so at least the population is maintained. We skip the Waitomo Glowworm Caves, too tired from the trip. Instead, we head to Kerosene Creek, a “warm” river in the middle of the forest—which turns out to be even hotter than our hot pool, estimated at 40 degrees. We don’t last long.
And to top it all off, the Hobbiton Movie Set in Matamata at 5 p.m.: a dream come true. In the golden evening light above Bilbo’s green door, we feel a bit like hobbits ourselves.

The last four days north of Auckland at Lotus Cottage, an Airbnb in Warkworth. Short trips to secluded beaches, long days spent swimming in the warm Pacific, and a farewell dinner to wrap things up. Return flight on January 14 at 11:45 p.m. with Qatar Airways—and the realization that four weeks in New Zealand is too short, yet somehow just right.